What is a vicious dog?

Question:

This may seem like a very simple question, but what behaviors do vicious dogs exhibit.  Do they only exhibit them, when they are protecting their territory? If a dog is behind a fence and you have to walk by, if it shows it’s teeth and growls, even though you don’t approach or speak to it, is that considered vicious? What would be the purpose of owning a dog like this.   Are they city oridnances where you live, that state you can’t own a vicious dog? Thanks in adance Elizabeth.

Response:

Vicious is most likely a legal term in your local codes.  Most dogs must be declared vicious by a Hearings Judge. Or deemed an immediate danger to persons by an officer. It may mean something like the dog has bitten two people or several dogs etc. Here it is three strikes. The correct term should be "Dog own by out of control owners". Look it up or call the gov office IE Dog pound etc. dw – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > This may seem like a very simple question, but what > behaviors do vicious dogs exhibit.  Do they only exhibit > them, when they are protecting their territory? > If a dog is behind a fence and you have to walk by, > if it shows it’s teeth and growls, even though you don’t > approach or speak to it, is that considered vicious? > What would be the purpose of owning a dog like > this. > Are they city oridnances where you live, that state > you can’t own a vicious dog? > Thanks in adance > Elizabeth.

Response:

>This may seem like a very simple question, but what >behaviors do vicious dogs exhibit.

Ahh this is not a simple question.  Do they only exhibit >them, when they are protecting their territory?

To me a vicious dog is a dog that is NOT socialized. A well trained dog protecting his territory is NOT a vicious dog. >If a dog is behind a fence and you have to walk by, >if it shows it’s teeth and growls, even though you don’t >approach or speak to it, is that considered vicious?

The dog could be or could be not. You see this is why it is not an easy answer. : ) >What would be the purpose of owning a dog like >this.  

Owning a dog that is vicious? Or owning a dog that is protecting his property. Former would be of no purpose. Later would be of very good purpose. >Are they city ordinances where you live, that state >you can’t own a vicious dog?

A vicious dog here is any dog that has attacked and bitten someone more than once. >Thanks in adance >Elizabeth.

Your welcome Paulette~ – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text –

Response:

>This may seem like a very simple question, but what > behaviors do vicious dogs exhibit.  Do they only exhibit > them, when they are protecting their territory?

I’d define it as a dog that jumps the fence runs for 2 blocks and then seriously bites the first person it sees Bob Maida Dog Training/Problem Counseling since 1969 Herndon, Virginia Adopt/Foster one until there are none

Response:

>This may seem like a very simple question, but what >> behaviors do vicious dogs exhibit.  Do they only exhibit >> them, when they are protecting their territory? > I’d define it as a dog that jumps the fence > runs for 2 blocks and then seriously > bites the first person it sees > Bob Maida > Dog Training/Problem Counseling since 1969 > Herndon, Virginia > Adopt/Foster one until there are none

CONGRATULATIONS! You’ve finally answered a real dog behavior question. Lucky thing he didn’t ask HOWE to train him not to do that, eh boob? Ask yourself "WHY DOESN’T JERRY HURT DOGS TO TRAIN THEM?" And then just answer "BECAUSE JERRY KNOWS HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS WITHOUT HURTING THEM." And THEN SAY OUT LOUD: "IGNORE JERRY, HE’S MEAN TO DOG ABUSERS." You can get all the information you need to PROPERLY handle and train your dog using non force, non confronatational, scientific and psychological methods, in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com The Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual is provided compliments of  the BIOSOUND Scientific Elves as an alternative to Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too). Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe. j;~} "The Koehler Method of Dog Training" , Howell Book House, 1996": BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn’t quiet them, so we’ll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more emphatic. We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are raised off the floor or, if he’s a big dog, until you’ve snubbed him up with a hitch on something. While he’s held in close, lay the strap vigorously against his thighs. Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it’s the bitter end. A real whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat performances that will be necessary. When you’re finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the area again. So that you won’t feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I’ve always felt that it’s even better to spank children, even if they "cry out," than to "put them to sleep." You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more. It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day off so that you’ll have time to follow through sufficiently. When you have a full day, you will be able to convince him each yelp will have a bad consequence, and the consistency will make your job easier. If he gets away with his concert part of the time, he’ll be apt to gamble on your inconsistency. After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the correction" will be tied in close enough association so that you can move in on him without the preliminary bellowing of "out." From then on, it’s just a case of laying for the dog and supplying enough bad consequences of his noise so he’ll no longer feel like gambling. If there has been a long history of barking and whining, it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be quiet when you’re not around, so give the above method an honest try before you presume your dog requires a more severe correction.

Response:

>If a dog is behind a fence and you have to walk by, >if it shows it’s teeth and growls, even though you don’t >approach or speak to it, is that considered vicious?

Not necessarily.  It could be a very friendly dog if you met it in open space, but simply protecting its territory.  I know some friendly dogs who will act like ferocious beasts if you approach them when they are in a car. I would say that a dog like this has more of a tendency to be vicious than one who begs you to come through the fence and play, but it’s not a definitive sign of viciousness. My Eskie would show his teeth, growl, and bark at people who came in the house.  Outside of the house he may be a little skittish (the older the got, the less skittish he became), but only in his house did he display a show of viciousness.  However, a complete stranger could stick their hand in his mouth while he was carrying on, and he would simply turn his head away and continue his act.  (I know this for a fact – a friend of mine who met him for the first time actually DID this. :} Learn How to Can Spam http://www.whew.com/Spammers/reportspam_stepbystep.shtml http://www.spamfree.org/ WHITE HAT OF THE MONTH – Nominate At:  http://www.whitehat.com/whotm/ Internet Secrets, 2nd Edition, by John Levine (All About Spam, p. 277)

Response:

ill ask again. HOW (not that childish "HOWE") many trainers have you put out of biz??? that is your goal, as we all know. HOW many have you put out of biz so far??? have you failed so far? yep.

Response:

Hello laura,

> ill ask again. HOW (not that childish "HOWE") many > trainers have you put out of biz???

Your friend boob hasn’t been posting here for most of the past two years because I’ve been climbing all over every one of his incompetent posts. Your pal lyingdogDUMMY took a few months away, and only came back because I kept pulling his chain. lyingfrosty dahl has been gone for months. Freaky frantik fraud die doesn’t post here no moore. cindymooron hasn’t posted any "training" advice in over a year. blackman is posting less of her toxic logic. lyingdoc dermer seldom posts, and professora "chin cuff DEFINITELY doesn’t mean SLAP the dog"gingold has been out of the picture most of the past year. That’s a start. They only keep coming back because their pals keep asking them to help deal with the JERRY problem. Too bad I’m just using their own words to crucify them, BWAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAAAA!!! > that is your goal, as we all know. HOW many have you > put out of biz so far???

I’m doing pretty good, judging by my emails.. LOTS of good people support me here. > have you failed so far?

I’m proving your pals are lying, dog abusing thugs. The rest will follow. This is a war, not a battle. There are two sides, and one MUST die. That’s the nature of warfare. > yep.

Yup. I came in here prepared to kill or be killed. This isn’t a GAME. Dogs LIVES DEPEND on the calber of information coming out of here. And there hasn’t been any good information till I came here, because your pals have a long history of harassing and ridiculing EVERY competent trainer whose ever posted here till they burn out defending NOT HURTING dogs to train them. I saw what had been going on, and came in here with a plan. The plan has been working exactly as it was supposed to.  Even your posts are in the design of the plan. Thank you for supporting my effort. And I also thank ed w., marquis de "read koehler for content" shaw, even dw and OF COURSE, lyingdogDUMMY (my favorite next to freaky frantik fraud die). I couldn’t do all this without the help of all of our Gang Of Thugs, their viciousness, and their lies. Your pal, Jerry "The REAL DEAL," Howe. j;~} Here’s a little "GOOD KOEHLER TRAINING," according to lyingdogDUMMY, lying"I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn, professor lyingdoc dermer, professora "chin cuff DEFINITELY doesn’t mean SLAP the dog" gingold, lyingfrosty "Get a stick 30"- 40" long and REPEAT VARYING HOWE HARD YOU HIT THE DOG" dahl, susan fraser, cindymooreon, and most of our Gang Of Thugs: "The first step of correction is to confine the dog closely in a part of the house when you go away, so that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you no other course than to punish him sufficiently to convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is not worth the consequences. If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these "backsliders" will think they’re winning and will continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the mess he’s made so you can come back at twenty minute intervals and punish him again for the same thing. In most cases, the dog that deliberately does this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the light spanking that some owners seem to think is adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as well as the house, if you really pour it on him." Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard.

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Amy lyingfrosty Dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article, there is NO mention in it of twisting ears. ‘Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch’ I would never slap a dog. I would never advise anyone to slap a dog. I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean slap, it means hit. ‘WITH THAT EVER READY RIGHT HAND’ amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch." Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. Ask yourself "WHY DOESN’T JERRY HURT DOGS TO TRAIN THEM?" And then just answer "BECAUSE JERRY KNOWS HOWE TO TRAIN DOGS WITHOUT HURTING THEM." And THEN SAY OUT LOUD: "IGNORE JERRY, HE’S MEAN TO DOG ABUSERS." You can get all the information you need to PROPERLY handle and train your dog using non force, non confronatational, scientific and psychological methods, in the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for free at http://www.doggydoright.com The Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual is provided compliments of  the BIOSOUND Scientific Elves as an alternative to Doggy Do Right (and Kitty Will Too). Your pal, Jerry "The Phony," Howe. j;~}

Response:

There is a major difference between aggressive, agonistic behavior, and viciousness, a difference that all too often is confused.  All animals can and do demonstrate agonistic behaviors–behaviors directed against another animal, and affecting that other’s behavior and/or continued existence. Aggression refers to the amount of drive involved, the readiness to present agonistic behaviors.  BUT (deliberate caps), aggression is not viciousness. Perhaps we would be less prone to confabulate aggressiveness with viciousness if we thought of the former as assertiveness. Aggressive behavior is of two kinds–that which we consider appropriate and that which is inappropriate.  The dog who saves the life of his master’s child against an attack is not vicious; he is defined as heroic.  The dog who gives out a warning bark as a stranger approaches the front door, is not vicious; he is being a good watchdog.  The dog who attacks without reason, the dog whose actions are overkill for the situation, that is the dog who might, perhaps, legitimately be labelled "vicious."  Protective behaviors are not necessarily vicious behaviors.  (Typically there is far more affect involved in vicious behavior.) In the example you gave, of a dog behind a fence showing its teeth and growling as you walk by, the dog is not being vicious nor is he emitting vicious behaviors.  He is, quite properly, warning the passerby of territorial limits.  The purpose of owning a dog like that is to warn off would-be miscreants.  The prospective burglar, who is frightened off by the barking and/or growling dog, is the one who will not break into your house. Now, should that dog jump the fence to get to someone who is not attempting entry, and bite an innocuous passerby, that dog is behaving in a vicious fashion. avrama & baruch the academic factor <>the most beautiful dog in the world is the one who looks at you with love. <>

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This may seem like a very simple question, but what > behaviors do vicious dogs exhibit.  Do they only exhibit > them, when they are protecting their territory? > If a dog is behind a fence and you have to walk by, > if it shows it’s teeth and growls, even though you don’t > approach or speak to it, is that considered vicious? > What would be the purpose of owning a dog like > this. > Are they city oridnances where you live, that state > you can’t own a vicious dog? > Thanks in adance > Elizabeth.

Response:

In my opinion, a ‘vicious dog’ is; "A dog that cannot be controlled and/or is unpredictable." Dogs that guard their property are not necessarily ‘vicious’, just protective. If the owner appears while the dog is ‘guarding’ and cannot immediately call it off or ‘control’ it, then I’d say that dog was ‘vicious’. JMO

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> This may seem like a very simple question, but what > behaviors do vicious dogs exhibit.  Do they only exhibit > them, when they are protecting their territory? > If a dog is behind a fence and you have to walk by, > if it shows it’s teeth and growls, even though you don’t > approach or speak to it, is that considered vicious? > What would be the purpose of owning a dog like > this. > Are they city oridnances where you live, that state > you can’t own a vicious dog? > Thanks in adance > Elizabeth.

Response:

What about a dog who’s protecting not his own property but who barks and growls ferociously at another dog while on a walk? My 9MO pup and I have on occasion walked within half a block of a certain owner of two greyhounds. When they see us (and it’s quite a distance–up to 400 ft.), they growl and lunge and bark fiercely. It seems to me the owner barely has them under control. What would these dogs do to me or my dog if one of them got out of the owner’s grasp? Anne

Response:

Hello professora "chin cuff don’t mean SLAP,"gingold,

> There is a major difference between aggressive, agonistic > behavior, and viciousness,

All the training tools YOU rely on. > a difference that all too often is confused.

BUT OF COURSE. You HURT your dog as part of a well rounded training method involving fairness, love, rewards, and punishment ONLY when necessary. That’s NICE professora. > All animals can and do demonstrate agonistic behaviors–

Like jerking and choking your dog when he’s not paying attention to you, and beating him with a stick or belt every twenty minutes for the same mistake you’ve tied him next to… it’s in your koehler book. > behaviors directed against another animal, and affecting > that other’s behavior and/or continued existence.

EXACTLY. That’s your definition of TRAINING… Thank you, professora. > Aggression refers to the amount of drive involved, the > readiness to present agonistic behaviors.

I think you’ve lost me there, professora. I’m just a poor, uneducated, $#!T~kicking dog trainer. I like to think of aggression as another training tool. Don’t you? Makes it SOUND NICE when you’re amongst decent people. It’s approve of by the "experts." LIKE YOU, professora. > BUT (deliberate caps), aggression is not viciousness.

RIGHT. IT’S TRAINING. There’s a difference. Like CHIN CUFF isn’t the same as HITTING. *deliberate caps… > Perhaps we would be less prone to confabulate > aggressiveness with viciousness if we thought of the > former as assertiveness.

SEMANTICS. That’s HOWE you justify HURTING dogs, as articulated in your training program, the koehler method. > Aggressive behavior is of two kinds–that which we > consider appropriate

Like chin cuffing and scruff shaking, jerking and choking dogs on pronged choke collars, twisting and pinching their ears, toes, and testicles, shocking, beating dogs with sticks, and HANGING them. It’s all in the book the BIBLE, by koehler. (Minus the prong and shock. those are MOORE modern ADVANCES in training). HOWE’s my spellin? > and that which is inappropriate.

NOT HURTING THE DOG when you don’t know HOWE ELSE to properly handle and train a particular problem… > The dog who saves the life of his master’s child against > an attack is not vicious; he is defined as heroic.  The dog > who gives out a warning bark as a stranger approaches > the front door, is not vicious; he is being a good > watchdog.

Right. So reward the dog with lots of cookies. > The dog who attacks without reason,

THEY GOT TO DIE. Ask your pit bull libertarian pal john richardson. Or ask our shelter and rescue folks like janet boss and lying"I LOVE KOEHLER"lynn or cindymooreon or lyingdogDUMMY. > the dog whose actions are overkill for the situation,

We should BEAT and HANG them first according to koehler. And THEN kill them. > that is  the dog who might, perhaps, legitimately be > labelled "vicious."

Only by our dog abusing COWARDS who HURT dogs to train them. Like YOU, professora. That’s why YOUR dog bashed your teeth down your throat for you… SEE? That’s allelomimetic behavior. That chin cuff came back to bash YOUR teeth right down your throat for ya… tee hee, tee hee, tee hee…j;~} > Protective behaviors are not necessarily vicious > behaviors.

RIGHT. Just like your training method. It’s TEACHING. >  (Typically there is far more affect involved in vicious > behavior.)

Huh? > In the example you gave, of a dog behind a fence > showing its teeth and growling as you walk by, the dog is > not being vicious nor is he emitting vicious behaviors.

HOWE would we know that? Our "experts" here always want to SEE the behaviors. When janet boss SEES that little dog in the thread "interested in hearing" she SEES a vicious dog who NEEDS to be HURT. So she tells them to put a pronged choke collar and jerk and choke the dog till he becomes FRIENDLY. That’s why our Gang Of Thug’s consensus of opinion was "KILL THE DOG TO BE FAIR." Too bad nobody thought to shut off the shock devices that CAUSED the dog to be aggressive. > He is, quite properly, warning the passerby of > territorial limits.

SO HURT HIM, like janet did. Or just KILL him like john would. >  The purpose of owning a dog like that is to warn off > would-be miscreants.

LIKEWISE. That’s why I’m here, PROFESSORA. > The prospective burglar, who is frightened off by the > barking and/or growling dog, is the one who will not break > into your house.

Or come in take out your dog and take your booty. Good criminals don’t GET SCARED, they DO the SCARING. That’s why I train my dogs to do their job properly… > Now, should that dog jump the fence to get to someone > who is not attempting entry,

According to the Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual, we create a sound distraction and praise, and repeat it till the behavior is extinguished. > and bite an innocuous passerby,

That won’t happen if your train the dog not to jump the fence. Your koehler method recommends using "a good slingshot or a handful of BB’s." INFLICT ENOUGH PAIN, and the behavior will stop. If that doesn’t work, we’d be instructed to HANG the dog. And THEN kill it. > that dog is behaving in a vicious fashion.

I wonder why, professora… > avrama & baruch > the academic factor

"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is something you twisted out of context, because you are full of bizarro manure." Amy lyingfrosty Dahl LIES with a straight face and says: "I don’t beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses not to read the article, there is NO mention in it of twisting ears. ‘Make the dog’s need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting your will fades in importance. but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the ear pinch’ I would never slap a dog. I would never advise anyone to slap a dog. I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever, where slapping a dog is anything but destructive." RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists… and chin cuff doesn’t mean slap, it means hit. ‘WITH THAT EVER READY RIGHT HAND’ amy lyingfrosty dahl continues: "Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them more sharply. With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch." Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy. Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog You can press the dog’s ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching its ear. if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell. Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in" Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis. "The Koehler Method of Dog Training" , Howell Book House, 1996": BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn’t quiet them, so we’ll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more emphatic. We’ll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his mouth. But you won’t make the permanent impression unless you supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don’t always come at the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour" and pursue his old routines at other times. With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not lessen the dog’s value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more discriminating, increase it. The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because you’re gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you’ll have to heed the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little ingenuity as well as a heavy hand. Attach a line to your dog’s collar, so your corrective effort doesn’t turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog drags it around when you’re not present. Next, equip yourself with a man’s leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a good tanning. Yup-we’re going to strike him. Real hard. Remember, you’re dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does. When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so you can barge in while he’s still barking, which is generally impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of "out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area. Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you’ve conveniently placed, and descend on him. He’ll have no chance to dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet … read more »

Response:

They’d probably PLAY. The fence is probably the only reason they’re acting aggressively. That’s because of the restriction of the barrier. That’s the SAME REASON your dogs pull… Bye! j;~}

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> What about a dog who’s protecting not his own property but who barks and growls > ferociously at another dog while on a walk? > My 9MO pup and I have on occasion walked within half a block of a certain owner > of two greyhounds. When they see us (and it’s quite a distance–up to 400 ft.), > they growl and lunge and bark fiercely. It seems to me the owner barely has > them under control. What would these dogs do to me or my dog if one of them got > out of the owner’s grasp? > Anne

Response:

Related Posts